Lawn Fertilizer

[tazclone]

Where can you find what you recommend? The advice between you and Cyclonesrule91 is confusing. I have found a source for 9-23-14. What I am hearing you say is that the 23 is way too high. I want what is best for my lawn without having to mow 2 times a week, keeping weeds at bay. I mulch when I mow, catching only when I don't have the time to mow twice weekly.

The only thing I disagree with Cyclonesrule91 bout is the amount of phosphorus. That is it.

1. Fertilizer recommendations should only be made by viewing a soil test. Ask your local coop or go to an ISU extension office to get info on getting a soil test.
2. With that said, I am going against my professional rule and saying look for fertilizers that have a ratio that is 2-1-4 or 1-1-2 if you have an established lawn. The higher the K (third number) the better. Phosphorus(middle number) just isn't as necessary in an established lawn unless you collect clippings. As a rule, find a fertilizer that has a big third number and small middle number.
3. Potassium nitrate (13.4-0-45) is hard to come by but you can check your local coop. Otherwise ask the local coop if they can blend ammonium sulfate and potash together to give you a 1-0-2 blend. Keep in mind these fertilzers can burn so they need to be watered in to get them off the leaf tissue.

[colbycheese]

I'm going to preface my reply with the fact that I have my MS in soil science (currently working on a PhD in soil science) and that I know more about soil fertility (nutrients for your lawn) than the average person. Also, I admit that I don't really know anything about weed control.

Now, if you truly want to get the most bang for your buck in regards to adding fertilizer to your lawn, do a soil test. Having the soil analyzed is the most accurate way to determine what nutrients your lawn is deficient in - if any. Taking a soil sample is as easy as going out and taking small soil samples from the top 6-8 inches of top soil from all over your lawn so that you have a representative sample. Then, mix all of the samples in a large bucket until they are thoroughly mixed. You can take this sample and submit it to a lab that will analyze it for nutrients. You can submit samples to the ISU soil and plant analysis laboratory ($8 for a general soil analysis for horticultural crops... including turf grass), or you can submit it to a local soil testing lab or coop as mentioned by another poster. Here is the link to the ISU Soil and Plant Analysis Lab, specifically their horticultural crop soil testing page. They have directions on how to take a soil sample, package, ship it, etc.

ISU's lab will analyze for phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and pH (for lime requirements). They will also likely tell you how much N you should be applying. They won't test for this because N is tough to measure in samples that are shipped, and potential stored for any amount of time. If you need help interpreting the results, PM me and I'll help you out.

If you have spots in your yard that look different than the rest of the lawn (like large yellow areas, or spots that don't grow as tall and its not due to weeds), then take a separate sample from that area and submit multiple samples for analysis.

Laymen lawn care DIY'ers often over-apply, or even under-apply fertilizer and lime because they don't do soil tests. Do it, you'll be happy you did.

Lastly, the one weed control trick I do know is that if you keep your grass as long as possible, it will be better able to compete with weeds because the grass will shade the weeds out. If you cut grass too short, you will definitely have crabgrass or other weed problems moving into your lawn.

[tazclone]

I'm going to preface my reply with the fact that I have my MS in soil science (currently working on a PhD in soil science) and that I know more about soil fertility (nutrients for your lawn) than the average person. Also, I admit that I don't really know anything about weed control.

Now, if you truly want to get the most bang for your buck in regards to adding fertilizer to your lawn, do a soil test. Having the soil analyzed is the most accurate way to determine what nutrients your lawn is deficient in - if any. Taking a soil sample is as easy as going out and taking small soil samples from the top 6-8 inches of top soil from all over your lawn so that you have a representative sample. Then, mix all of the samples in a large bucket until they are thoroughly mixed. You can take this sample and submit it to a lab that will analyze it for nutrients. You can submit samples to the ISU soil and plant analysis laboratory ($8 for a general soil analysis for horticultural crops... including turf grass), or you can submit it to a local soil testing lab or coop as mentioned by another poster. Here is the link to the ISU Soil and Plant Analysis Lab, specifically their horticultural crop soil testing page. They have directions on how to take a soil sample, package, ship it, etc.

ISU's lab will analyze for phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and pH (for lime requirements). They will also likely tell you how much N you should be applying. They won't test for this because N is tough to measure in samples that are shipped, and potential stored for any amount of time. If you need help interpreting the results, PM me and I'll help you out.

If you have spots in your yard that look different than the rest of the lawn (like large yellow areas, or spots that don't grow as tall and its not due to weeds), then take a separate sample from that area and submit multiple samples for analysis.

Laymen lawn care DIY'ers often over-apply, or even under-apply fertilizer and lime because they don't do soil tests. Do it, you'll be happy you did.

Lastly, the one weed control trick I do know is that if you keep your grass as long as possible, it will be better able to compete with weeds because the grass will shade the weeds out. If you cut grass too short, you will definitely have crabgrass or other weed problems moving into your lawn.

GREAT ADVICE! and everyone should take it.

The only thing I would guard against is keeping your grass "as long as possible." There is such a thing as too long as the grass will get leggy and thin. As a general rule 1.5"-3" is appropriate height for bluegrass blends to compete 2"-2.5" is ideal

[ISUFan22]

GREAT ADVICE! and everyone should take it.

The only thing I would guard against is keeping your grass "as long as possible." There is such a thing as too long as the grass will get leggy and thin. As a general rule 1.5"-3" is appropriate height for bluegrass blends to compete 2"-2.5" is ideal

Correct. Mow high, mow often.

[CyCrazy]

GREAT ADVICE! and everyone should take it.

The only thing I would guard against is keeping your grass "as long as possible." There is such a thing as too long as the grass will get leggy and thin. As a general rule 1.5"-3" is appropriate height for bluegrass blends to compete 2"-2.5" is ideal

Or seed your lawn with Memorial Bentgrass and cut it at .110. Then you can putt in your backyard.

[tazclone]

Or seed your lawn with Memorial Bentgrass and cut it at .110. Then you can putt in your backyard.

I could think of better varieties and I am guessing people on the board don't have the timeor $ to maintain a bentgrass green

[TruClone]

This thread needs to re-titled "Turf Wars!"

[Wesley]

If this is turf wars -

Do not plant zoysia grass to save water or your neighbor may be unhappy.

[CyCrazy]

If this is turf wars -

Do not plant zoysia grass to save water or your neighbor may be unhappy.

What if you hate your neighbor?

[SplitIdentity]

This thread may give you some ideas on some pretty cheap stuff...

http://www.cyclonefanatic.com/forum/...correctly.html (Today's Lesson: How to bury a hooker in the desert correctly.)

[bobh33]

Thanks everybody!! Found some 10-18-6 at Menards, what do you think about those numbers? Also, how much should you spend for a good spreader? Since alot of our lawn is more sand/clay then dirt, can you just starting spreading black dirt on top over a period of time to build it up (not covering up the existing grass of course)?

[tazclone]

Thanks everybody!! Found some 10-18-6 at Menards, what do you think about those numbers? Also, how much should you spend for a good spreader? Since alot of our lawn is more sand/clay then dirt, can you just starting spreading black dirt on top over a period of time to build it up (not covering up the existing grass of course)?

Don't like that fertilzer at all unless you are sodding or starting from seed. Too much P and not enough K. You can topdress with dirt just don't suffocate the plant. Organic matter will build up over time though. Think about this...turf roots generally go 3-12 inches so if you are topdressing to creat a good environment for your roots, it will take a lot of time. Topdressing with a material different than the soil can also create layering. Layering creates a barrier for roots as well as water issues.

[mj4cy]

You guys are too smart. I just want someone to tell me what to apply and when to apply it! :)

[tazclone]

You guys are too smart. I just want someone to tell me what to apply and when to apply it! :)

It isn't that simple. That is the issue.

[mj4cy]

Well I wish it was that simple.

My lawn is 8 years old. I did an Earl May program (expensive) last year and the lawned looked good but not great. I'm wondering if there is a way to do it cheaper this year.