Yes, rubber oxidizes and becomes brittle with time. For metallic parts, you really only have to worry about use. With non-metallic parts, simple exposure to the ambient environment causes decay even without use. I'd change it.
Which is why I can't figure out why they don't use a chain drive instead of a belt drive on a lot more engines like on larger diesel motors... oh well.
I have heard of a timing belt being as much as 700 or 800 but never 1,000.... it is a BIG job to do (in your garage of course) on some engines as you have to essentially drop the engine by removing the engine mount and jacking up the engine to get to it... not fun, but can be done on your own. I'd get a few more quotes and have it done if you plan on keeping the car for a lot more years. That being said, I've NEVER heard of anyone doing it prior to about 85k miles.
Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.
-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.
-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).
-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)
-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).
-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).
-Remove the crankshaft pulley.
-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).
-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).
-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).
-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).
-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).
-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).
-Remove the timing belt.
-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).
-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)
-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.
-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.
"For the great enemy of truth is very often not the lie -- deliberate, contrived, and dishonest -- but the myth -- persistent, persuasive, and unrealistic. Too often we hold fast to the clichés of our forebears. We subject all facts to a prefabricated set of interpretations. We enjoy the comfort of opinion without the discomfort of thought."
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Originally Posted by besserheimerphat 
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