Early lawn care

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ISUKing

Active Member
Apr 27, 2010
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Ankeny, IA
I know there are several threads about this, but the search is kinda......lacking....so here's a new one.

I live in Ankeny, is it too early to be thinking about putting down pre-emergent crabgrass control?

EDIT: I just found the search forums tab, which is much better.....the search at the top of the page is horrible.
 

DollaDollaBill

Active Member
Mar 2, 2010
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CR
I know there are several threads about this, but the search is kinda......lacking....so here's a new one.

I live in Ankeny, is it too early to be thinking about putting down pre-emergent crabgrass control?

EDIT: I just found the search forums tab, which is much better.....the search at the top of the page is horrible.
My lawn care company did it like a month ago
 
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AgronAlum

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Jul 12, 2014
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I know there are several threads about this, but the search is kinda......lacking....so here's a new one.

I live in Ankeny, is it too early to be thinking about putting down pre-emergent crabgrass control?

EDIT: I just found the search forums tab, which is much better.....the search at the top of the page is horrible.

No, you can go ahead and put it down. You want it on before the crabgrass has a chance to germ. You're actually on the late side.

Side note, be careful what you put down if you plan on seeding anytime soon as well. Most pre-emerge crabgrass killers will stop any seed you put down from germinating.
 

nocsious3

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Aug 23, 2013
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I wouldn't say it's late, maybe a touch but not going to make a difference. Just to give yourself a bit of flexibility you could use Dimension (dithiopyr) as you get some post emergent control too. Preen or Lesco uses Dimension and usually can be found at your big box stores.
 

Turn2

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May 12, 2011
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Clusterfunkeny
Crabgrass is a warm season grass. The most efficient applications are made just before germination, which would be in late April to mid-May in Ankeny. Lawn services do what is convenient, based on their huge numbers of customers, rather than what is the most timely. I have had the best luck with mid-April and late-June split application. Time your application just before a good rain. A thick, lush sod with no thin or bare spots is the best way to prevent crabgrass.
 

mj4cy

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Mar 28, 2006
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I think I'm going to apply my first application next week sometime. Do have one area I want to grow back some grass so I'll just have to be careful and not get to that area.


Do people put down grub killer in the summer? I have and have not done it in the past.
 

nocsious3

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Aug 23, 2013
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Technically crabgrass can germinate with soil temps 50-55 degrees, but most of the germination doesn't happen until soil temps hit 70. Crabgrass doesn't like cold and it dies off every winter. If it germinates too early and it turns cold again, it will never go to seed and be able to make crabgrass babies. That's why you don't really see it popping until soil temps get much warmer. I think a lot of people put their preventer down too early, and the pre-emergent wears off in late spring/early summer and they get crabgrass then. I like products with Dimension or Barricade in them as they tend to last a little longer in the soil. You need be a bit careful though with Barricade and apply it at the recommended rate though, as it can last into fall and prevent seeding germination if applied too heavily in the spring.
 

nocsious3

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Aug 23, 2013
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I think I'm going to apply my first application next week sometime. Do have one area I want to grow back some grass so I'll just have to be careful and not get to that area.


Do people put down grub killer in the summer? I have and have not done it in the past.

You could uses Tenacity as a pre-emergent and still seed, although that's not something that most do it yourself kind of guys can easily find and apply. It's an option though. To grub or not grub, that is an interesting question. I do use grub control, but alternate the active insecticide each year. I usually put it down in June sometime, sometimes July.

You don't need to worry about the grubs you find right now if you happen to dig up some soil and find a few.
 

Cytasticlone

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Mar 22, 2012
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You could uses Tenacity as a pre-emergent and still seed, although that's not something that most do it yourself kind of guys can easily find and apply. It's an option though. To grub or not grub, that is an interesting question. I do use grub control, but alternate the active insecticide each year. I usually put it down in June sometime, sometimes July.

You don't need to worry about the grubs you find right now if you happen to dig up some soil and find a few.

Any idea of where I could find Tenacity around Ames or Des Moines? I'm looking to reseed a patch and over seed the rest of my lawn. I do see Amazon has it, but I'm curious about local sources. Would I need to go to a coop or something?
 

mj4cy

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Mar 28, 2006
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Another lawn question.

Bad news - my dog destroyed maybe a 4' x 3' patch of grass from peeing in the same spot all winter.
Good news - its only one spot to deal with.

Easiest way to regrow? I have a huge bag of some of lime something or other (too lazy to go to the garage to check the label) that Earl May gave me like 8 years ago.
 

CYdTracked

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Mar 23, 2006
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Grimes, IA
I think I'm going to apply my first application next week sometime. Do have one area I want to grow back some grass so I'll just have to be careful and not get to that area.


Do people put down grub killer in the summer? I have and have not done it in the past.

The best time for grub treatment is late summer like in late August. Grubs are only present near the surface for a short period of time in the spring then they burrow deeper into the ground and return to feed near the sod once it begins to cool down again. You can tell better in the fall than the spring if you have a grub problem too, you'll see some brown spots and practically be able to peel the sod back with your hands with little resistance to find the grubs feeding underneath.
 

Buster28

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Dec 3, 2011
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Ames
I'm so glad I moved to a place with an HOA - I don't have to deal with lawn issues anymore. I won't miss the work (or have to twist my own arm to get it done)! :cool:
 

nocsious3

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Aug 23, 2013
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Any idea of where I could find Tenacity around Ames or Des Moines? I'm looking to reseed a patch and over seed the rest of my lawn. I do see Amazon has it, but I'm curious about local sources. Would I need to go to a coop or something?

It's possible some of the better garden stores might have it, but it's not common. It's a liquid only the last I checked. It works by disrupting photosynthesis so it turns weeds white before they die. It can injure grass sometimes too if put down too strong but generally the white will fade away and grass will eventually emerge unharmed. If you wait to seed until fall, which would be my recommendation, you should still think about using it then as it will prevent weeds from coming up during your fall seeding and ruining your hard work. I wouldn't use it just for overseeding, I'm talking about a full renovation where you kill everything green and start from scratch.
 
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nocsious3

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Aug 23, 2013
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The best time for grub treatment is late summer like in late August. Grubs are only present near the surface for a short period of time in the spring then they burrow deeper into the ground and return to feed near the sod once it begins to cool down again. You can tell better in the fall than the spring if you have a grub problem too, you'll see some brown spots and practically be able to peel the sod back with your hands with little resistance to find the grubs feeding underneath.

It depends on your desired result. There is preventative grub control vs. immediate insecticide on the actual larvae. Those are two different methods of action on the life cycle.
 

nocsious3

Well-Known Member
Aug 23, 2013
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Another lawn question.

Bad news - my dog destroyed maybe a 4' x 3' patch of grass from peeing in the same spot all winter.
Good news - its only one spot to deal with.

Easiest way to regrow? I have a huge bag of some of lime something or other (too lazy to go to the garage to check the label) that Earl May gave me like 8 years ago.


For small areas the patch master type products work well for the average homeowner. 4' x 3' is about the largest area where patch products might make sense financially, but if it must be repaired this year I'd try something like that from Scott's or Pennington.
 

nocsious3

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Aug 23, 2013
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Anybody want to weigh in on Menards brand fertilizer with Crabgrass control vs. Scott brand? It's quite a bit cheaper.

Two things to look for when comparing fertilizer content. First is price/lb of nitrogen. Menards is 26% Nitrogen by weight according to the label so that's about $3.60 per lb. of nitrogen but remember you are also paying for herbicide in these products. Second is the herbicide component. In this case Menads uses Dithopyr (Dimmension) at 0.125 %. Although Dithopyr is my preferred pre-emergent, 0.125% is essentially half strength and you could see the product fail in later season control if put down at the lower rate. The highest rate is 4.0lbs per 1,000 square feet and this should give very good control. I think the lower rate of 2.4 lbs/1000sq ft is too low and Penn State did a study comparing Dimmension to Barricade that backs that up.

Scotts would use Halts (pendamethalin) as it's pre-emergent herbicide. It works fine but doesn't last as long in the soil and might require a 2nd application in thinner lawns. In general, Scotts is not the cheapest source of Nitrogen or herbicide as it's got the brand name. Nothing Scott's does is generally any better than another brand and in some cases another brand might be better.

I'd go with the Menards and put it down at 3-4lbs. per 1,000/ft. that's essentially .75-1 lb nitrogen per 1,000/ft and gives you good long control well into the summer. Water it in immediately with 1/2 inch of water.
 

rdtindsm

Active Member
Jan 30, 2008
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Mowing grass high (2 1/2" or higher) will go a long way towards reducing lawn care efforts. It keeps the earth cool, delaying and reducing germination of crab grass. It also reduces evaporation and allows for a deeper root system and increases resistance to draught. Mowing high will substantially reduce crabgrass over the years. I don't seeing crabgrass until late July or early August.
 

CloneGuy8

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Mar 20, 2017
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Another lawn question.

Bad news - my dog destroyed maybe a 4' x 3' patch of grass from peeing in the same spot all winter.
Good news - its only one spot to deal with.

Easiest way to regrow? I have a huge bag of some of lime something or other (too lazy to go to the garage to check the label) that Earl May gave me like 8 years ago.
I had this problem last year. I just dug up the dead grass and laid some grass seed, Scotts turfbuilder I believe. Seemed to work okay for me