Woodworkers Thread
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I have a cordless that I used to trim down the ends of bigger than standard 4x4 fence posts to slip into simpson 4x4 boxes.
It sounds like you should get a random orbital sander. You can spend a lot of money on sanders but I still use the hell out of this guy:
If you end up going that route, klingspor woodworking has great discs for a range of sizes. Taytools is also another good place to check for discs.
Buying a planar really only depends on where you are buying the wood and what if anything has been done to it. If it is inconsistent thickness or has a lot of warp then a planar is going to save you a ton of time. As far as the bolded goes, unless the cutter head is off it should cut pretty flat, you may want to put in some fresh knives though or index the teeth if it is helical.
S2S, S3S and S4S Lumber – What Gives?
As this picture implies, lumber terminology can venture into boring territory. But it’s a necessary evil and if you want to make informed purchases, you must have at least a rudimentary understanding of how wood is graded and sold. One terminology set you’ll run into refers to how much work has...
thewoodwhisperer.com
As far as the planar goes, I bought this guy 4 years ago. Pretty inexpensive by comparison but I would probably spend the extra money and get a Dewalt if I could do it again. If I upgrade now I will probably get a more serious Grizzly one.
12 ½ inch Spiral Cutterhead Benchtop Planer - CUTECH 40700H
Motor Voltage: 120V Current: 15A Frequency: 60Hz Speed: 22000 RMP Cutterhead Type: Spiral Diameter: 2” Cutterhead Speed: 10000 RPM Blades: 24 Two-sided Tungsten Carbide Inserts Max Depth of Cut: 3/32 in. Max Cutting Width: 12½" Max Stock Thickness: 6" Feed Rate: 26 FPM Elevation Mechanism 4...
I have though about getting one recently but I am not sure if I want to do that or spend the money on a No 7 and/or No 4 hand plane
I think my next big purchase is going to be a cyclone dust collector. I don't want to spend a fortune so I have my eye on this grizzly. I really want a Harvey G700 but can't spend that much on one.
www.grizzly.com
www.harveywoodworking.com
Grizzly G0860 - 1-1/2 HP Portable Cyclone Dust Collector - Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
<h1>G0860 1-1/2 HP Portable Cyclone Dust Collector</h1> <h2>For the shop tight on space needing a portable dust collector.</h2> <p>The G0860 1-1/2 HP Portable Cyclone Dust Collector features an impressive 868 CFM and up to 9.7" of static pressure, creating a vortex of incoming air that extracts...
GYRO AIR G-700 Dust Processor
In Stock Packing time: 5-7 business days GYRO AIR G-700 Dust Processor Dust Problems that Have Never Been Solved In a woodworking shop, wood dust is always a big problem for woodworkers. Flying dust particles can severely harm not only the health of operators but also the environment. In...
Remember too on a planer you can flip knives over because both ends are sharp.It sounds like you should get a random orbital sander. You can spend a lot of money on sanders but I still use the hell out of this guy:
If you end up going that route, klingspor woodworking has great discs for a range of sizes. Taytools is also another good place to check for discs.
Buying a planar really only depends on where you are buying the wood and what if anything has been done to it. If it is inconsistent thickness or has a lot of warp then a planar is going to save you a ton of time. As far as the bolded goes, unless the cutter head is off it should cut pretty flat, you may want to put in some fresh knives though or index the teeth if it is helical.
S2S, S3S and S4S Lumber – What Gives?
As this picture implies, lumber terminology can venture into boring territory. But it’s a necessary evil and if you want to make informed purchases, you must have at least a rudimentary understanding of how wood is graded and sold. One terminology set you’ll run into refers to how much work has...
As far as the planar goes, I bought this guy 4 years ago. Pretty inexpensive by comparison but I would probably spend the extra money and get a Dewalt if I could do it again. If I upgrade now I will probably get a more serious Grizzly one.
12 ½ inch Spiral Cutterhead Benchtop Planer - CUTECH 40700H
Motor Voltage: 120V Current: 15A Frequency: 60Hz Speed: 22000 RMP Cutterhead Type: Spiral Diameter: 2” Cutterhead Speed: 10000 RPM Blades: 24 Two-sided Tungsten Carbide Inserts Max Depth of Cut: 3/32 in. Max Cutting Width: 12½" Max Stock Thickness: 6" Feed Rate: 26 FPM Elevation Mechanism 4...cutech.tools
I have bought Powetec replacements off of Amazon that have held up well.
I think Acme may sharpen them as well but for 20 bucks for a new set with both ends is good enough for me.
Everything I have read is the sole of it is too short and you will be chasing high and low spots. Might consider building something like a router sled. Lots of bits to choose from and a lot of good info on YT. A router investment is a lot more versatile. There are many versions to this idea.
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Yeah, that is why I like the helical heads so much, you get 4 sides on them. Granted they are more of a pain to swap.
This is good information. I don’t know that I can justify spending 500 for a Dewalt one but my interest is peaked. What somebody was trying to tell me I needed was a planer joiner. What should I know about those?It sounds like you should get a random orbital sander. You can spend a lot of money on sanders but I still use the hell out of this guy:
If you end up going that route, klingspor woodworking has great discs for a range of sizes. Taytools is also another good place to check for discs.
Buying a planar really only depends on where you are buying the wood and what if anything has been done to it. If it is inconsistent thickness or has a lot of warp then a planar is going to save you a ton of time. As far as the bolded goes, unless the cutter head is off it should cut pretty flat, you may want to put in some fresh knives though or index the teeth if it is helical.
S2S, S3S and S4S Lumber – What Gives?
As this picture implies, lumber terminology can venture into boring territory. But it’s a necessary evil and if you want to make informed purchases, you must have at least a rudimentary understanding of how wood is graded and sold. One terminology set you’ll run into refers to how much work has...
As far as the planar goes, I bought this guy 4 years ago. Pretty inexpensive by comparison but I would probably spend the extra money and get a Dewalt if I could do it again. If I upgrade now I will probably get a more serious Grizzly one.
12 ½ inch Spiral Cutterhead Benchtop Planer - CUTECH 40700H
Motor Voltage: 120V Current: 15A Frequency: 60Hz Speed: 22000 RMP Cutterhead Type: Spiral Diameter: 2” Cutterhead Speed: 10000 RPM Blades: 24 Two-sided Tungsten Carbide Inserts Max Depth of Cut: 3/32 in. Max Cutting Width: 12½" Max Stock Thickness: 6" Feed Rate: 26 FPM Elevation Mechanism 4...
Also, this might be a pretty dumb question but I’m a rookie at this so bare with me. The orbital sander: if I’m sanding down 2x material for table top, coffee table, etc I was always under the understanding that a belt sander alows you to go with grain and not show a bunch of random marks in differ directions (for lack of a better way to explain it). With that Bosch, wouldn’t you leave a lot of noticeable finish marks on your material?It sounds like you should get a random orbital sander. You can spend a lot of money on sanders but I still use the hell out of this guy:
If you end up going that route, klingspor woodworking has great discs for a range of sizes. Taytools is also another good place to check for discs.
Buying a planar really only depends on where you are buying the wood and what if anything has been done to it. If it is inconsistent thickness or has a lot of warp then a planar is going to save you a ton of time. As far as the bolded goes, unless the cutter head is off it should cut pretty flat, you may want to put in some fresh knives though or index the teeth if it is helical.
S2S, S3S and S4S Lumber – What Gives?
As this picture implies, lumber terminology can venture into boring territory. But it’s a necessary evil and if you want to make informed purchases, you must have at least a rudimentary understanding of how wood is graded and sold. One terminology set you’ll run into refers to how much work has...
As far as the planar goes, I bought this guy 4 years ago. Pretty inexpensive by comparison but I would probably spend the extra money and get a Dewalt if I could do it again. If I upgrade now I will probably get a more serious Grizzly one.
12 ½ inch Spiral Cutterhead Benchtop Planer - CUTECH 40700H
Motor Voltage: 120V Current: 15A Frequency: 60Hz Speed: 22000 RMP Cutterhead Type: Spiral Diameter: 2” Cutterhead Speed: 10000 RPM Blades: 24 Two-sided Tungsten Carbide Inserts Max Depth of Cut: 3/32 in. Max Cutting Width: 12½" Max Stock Thickness: 6" Feed Rate: 26 FPM Elevation Mechanism 4...
You just have to make sure you’re not skipping grits and you’ll be fine. For example, you’ll get swirl marks going from an 80 to a 180 or a 120 to a 220. A 180 grit paper won’t take the marks made from 80 grit paper. You’d go something like 80, 120, 150 then 180 depending on you finished grit and where you have to start.
I’ve got a Dewalt orbital that gets used constantly.
Belt sanders are for bulk work (removing lots of material quickly).
Pad/sheet sanders are to remove the belt sander marks (there will marks)
Random orbital sanders are to prep the surface for finish. Orbital sanders will leave the best surface with fewest marks for finish work.
(You can always complete it with hand sanding in high grit paper but I am lazy and usually skip that.)
So they are probably talking about a planar-jointer combo machine. You use a jointer to straighten/flatten one face of a board and then a planar to surface/flatten the opposing face. My thoughts are they are good for space saving but like most combo tools they are only pretty good at each task and not great at either. I think you can skip getting most benchtop jointers, you can joint a board with a table saw, router, and planar with the right set up. It is probably one of the last tools you can buy tbh (worth saving up for a floor standing model imo if you do). That being said like most things it comes down to how much much you are looking to spend. You can spend $4k+ and get a Hammer combo machine that kicks ass from what I have seen on instagram.
Everyone else pretty much answered your question already but like with most things sanding/finishing, it comes down to how patient you are and how you use it.
Good tip. Thoughts on a good router? I think I’m gonna buy that Bosch sander. I had somebody else tell me that was a good one too.
A planer and jointer kind of work together, you don’t NEED both of them but they definitely complement each other. A jointer is for making surfaces flat and a planer makes them parallel. They do make combo jointer/planer machines and if you have a small shop they’re pretty kick-ass for saving floor space. I’ve got a 6 inch jointer I picked up second hand for $250 and a Dewalt 736 planer and they work great for me but once I get my student loans paid off a couple years from now I’m going to take that money and save up for a combo machine to save some space in the garage.
I have the Hitachi below and it works very well but it’s big and bulky. Bosch and Porter Cable will do well and are regularly on sale at Rockler and other places.
I have no complaints with my Bosch router table. It’s the one with the steel deck on it. Don’t skimp on bits you’ll use regularly. My most used bits are Freud and I just bought some Rocklers that I haven’t used yet. I’ve heard they work well. I’ve had decent luck with the CMT bits at menards that’ll get used only a handful of times.
