Residential Solar Panels

[VTXCyRyD]

I've been looking at adding solar to my house. I think about 6000-7000w worth of panels will offset my cost of purchasing from the power company. I would like to do the installation (roof installation, running wires, mounting hardware) myself and then have a licensed electrician "friend" come over and do the final wiring. It looks like ROI might be around 8 years, and I don't plan on moving so after that I can reap the rewards.

Has anyone here done something like this? Who did you purchase panels, inverters, and mounting kit from? Has your ROI been close to what was calculated?

 

[CascadeClone]

I am in the midst of doing solar on my house, same system size. But I am hiring it done, too much install for me - "a man's got to know his limitations". So I can't speak too much to your specific questions about where to buy. But let me throw in my 2 cents as to why DIY is not for most people.

1) For a system that size, you are looking at like 16-20k installed. You can pay more certainly, if you get someone expensive and top line panels. I tried to price the components myself, came up with a guess at install costs about $4-5k on that $16-20k. That's real money, but you also get 26% tax credit on it, so it's actually $3-4k. Is it worth it?

2) Solar is really unique and bespoke, it is so site and project specific. You have to get right inverter (or microinverters) to go with the panels, the right wiring sizes, etc - it all has to work together. You gotta do an interconnect switch the power company will OK. Don't get me started on batteries. Unless you are skilled at electrical system design (not just installation), I don't think it's a great idea to DIY. I am an AeroE and have done a ton of DIY over the years, and my son is a EE - but I don't think I would attempt this with him on my home. Maybe on a barn or something simple like that.

Sorry that doesn't really address your questions, and I imagine you have already figured this out and know what you are doing. Not trying to pee in your cheerios! But in case anyone else is thinking about it, just my thoughts on DIY so far.

I will point out a Cyclone alum owned solar installer - CB Solar. They might be who does mine, making a decision in the next couple weeks.

 

[BCClone]

Have you done a full projection on production? Batteries are crazy expensive. You will still need the electrical service. I put them on a business and have been disappointed so far

 

[wxman1]

I am planning to investigate it more in a year or so. Moved in November so I want at least a year of usage data to go off of.

 

[Sigmapolis]

Does MEC do some sort of net metering for residential solar?

 

[Hoggins]

I have a 8,000 kWH system installed in 2019 by Eagle Point Solar in Dubuque. Cost was 15k upfront and 10k after state and federal rebates. System will pay for itself in 6 years. We love it.

I’d suggest getting several quotes from companies and negotiating down. Referrals and tax credits are a huge help.

Edit: we’re with Alliant

 

[Hoggins]

I’ll also add that even though it might be possible to do yourself, you’ll need your electric companies approval unless you go off grid. Electric company is going to want licensed contractors.

Plus a solar company will handle all the paperwork for you with the electric company and any rebate/referrals

 

[NickTheGreat]

Do these setups have batteries or just sell back to the grid? IF you aren't on a REC and can sell back, it seems like a good idea.

Having to invest in batteries, and replace in a few years, I'm not sure how that actually pencils out.

 

[BCClone]

Do these setups have batteries or just sell back to the grid? IF you aren't on a REC and can sell back, it seems like a good idea.

Having to invest in batteries, and replace in a few years, I'm not sure how that actually pencils out.

Batteries don’t pencil

 

[VTXCyRyD]

Anyone in central Iowa that you've used for the install?

 

[Hoggins]

Do these setups have batteries or just sell back to the grid? IF you aren't on a REC and can sell back, it seems like a good idea.

Having to invest in batteries, and replace in a few years, I'm not sure how that actually pencils out.

I’d guess over 90% of the arrays in Iowa are grid tied and probably more. The batteries are really expensive

 

[VTXCyRyD]

I wasn't looking into a battery system to start. I don't want it to be off grid

 

[intrepid27]

We have a neighbor that is installing them on his third different house. He claims the first two paid for themselves in 5 years which was less than what most companies claim. The ones today have an incredible long life span and there is still tax incentives (I believe).

 

[VTXCyRyD]

This makes DIY seem not that difficult. I've done far more complex work than this.

 

[Hoggins]

This makes DIY seem not that difficult. I've done far more complex work than this.

It’s probably possible, but you’ll have to speak with your electric company.

For us, 10k for someone to handle everything was well worth the price

 

[BCClone]

Anyone in central Iowa that you've used for the install?

Guys who did mine came from Des Moines. We’re contracted through the solar company. Will see if I can find their names.

 

[CascadeClone]

Since a couple people asked questions, let me share some knowledge I have picked up in this process.

If you are on the grid now, you CAN'T go off grid. Like, they will NOT let you do that.

If you don't have batteries, then when the grid goes down, so does your solar. You will have no power even if the sun is shining. That is to prevent solar generated power going back into the grid and electrocuting the lineman working on it. That's your "interconnect" switch.

Batteries are pricey af. Typical home with a 6-7kW system costing 15-20k; appropriately sized battery system will nearly double that to about $30k.

Battery system may not provide 100% of the power you need during winter, cloudy days, night. But if you are careful with it, it should work, esp in summer months when outages are more common. It also makes a difference how much electricity you use. The more you use, the more battery you need, and the more it will cost.

Batteries are mostly guaranteed "useful life" of 6 or 10 years, depending on mfr. "Useful life" means 70-80% of initial capacity. So they will still work, just not as much capacity. You should be able to replace/add battery capacity in the future without too much trouble, and it should be cheaper in 10 years if Elon succeeds.

Net metering. Basically it works like your vacation hours at work. If you produce 1000 kWh in a month, but only use 800, then you "bank" 200. Next month, if you produce 900, and use 1000, you take 100 out of your bank free of charge from the utility. Essentially, you build up a bank thru the summer, and draw it down in winter. If your system is sized right, you will only make a little bit extra electricity. The utility will not pay you for the extra in your bank, I think they got that regulated out to save them money. So just like vacation hours, your kWh bank resets to zero once a year and you must use it or lose it.

The more you pay for electricity the more the ROI and payback makes sense, of course. The guy I spoke with today said Alliant is usually a lot more expensive per kWh than MidAm.

 

[AgronAlum]

What happens if you get roof damage and need to replace it? Do you have to pull off the whole system?

 

[BCClone]

Since a couple people asked questions, let me share some knowledge I have picked up in this process.

If you are on the grid now, you CAN'T go off grid. Like, they will NOT let you do that.

If you don't have batteries, then when the grid goes down, so does your solar. You will have no power even if the sun is shining. That is to prevent solar generated power going back into the grid and electrocuting the lineman working on it. That's your "interconnect" switch.

Batteries are pricey af. Typical home with a 6-7kW system costing 15-20k; appropriately sized battery system will nearly double that to about $30k.

Battery system may not provide 100% of the power you need during winter, cloudy days, night. But if you are careful with it, it should work, esp in summer months when outages are more common. It also makes a difference how much electricity you use. The more you use, the more battery you need, and the more it will cost.

Batteries are mostly guaranteed "useful life" of 6 or 10 years, depending on mfr. "Useful life" means 70-80% of initial capacity. So they will still work, just not as much capacity. You should be able to replace/add battery capacity in the future without too much trouble, and it should be cheaper in 10 years if Elon succeeds.

Net metering. Basically it works like your vacation hours at work. If you produce 1000 kWh in a month, but only use 800, then you "bank" 200. Next month, if you produce 900, and use 1000, you take 100 out of your bank free of charge from the utility. Essentially, you build up a bank thru the summer, and draw it down in winter. If your system is sized right, you will only make a little bit extra electricity. The utility will not pay you for the extra in your bank, I think they got that regulated out to save them money. So just like vacation hours, your kWh bank resets to zero once a year and you must use it or lose it.

The more you pay for electricity the more the ROI and payback makes sense, of course. The guy I spoke with today said Alliant is usually a lot more expensive per kWh than MidAm.

You have to check on the term of net net metering. Many are shortening up the term period. Several have went down to month timeframe and some even a day. Day works okay since you almost always produce more during the day period and burn it up at night.

 

[SWCy13]

I'm an appraiser & my only advice when it comes to residential solar is to make sure either:

A) You're going to stay in your house long enough to reap the benefits.
B) You don't care about getting significant contributory value out of your solar system when you go to sell your property.

There's limited market data in the markets that I have knowledge of to suggest that market participants will pay extra for solar (and really any other "energy efficient" add-ons - Geothermal, etc.). Hopefully this changes as solar becomes more prevalent.