Woodworkers Thread
- Thread starter AgronAlum
- Start date
I have an ever expanding selection of dewalt cordless tools including an impact driver. I like their tools, they are what I started out with and have never had a reason to change. I dropped a drill from 15 feet up once and cracked it pretty bad but it still worked. If your ryobi still works the only reason I would change it is to go to the same batteries as your other tools. I would think the specs for the impact drivers are similar, only difference would be quality. My wife has a ryobi drill, it's a decent tool but noticeably different than a dewalt or makita.
on the other hand you can't have too many tools.
I have used acme tools in the past so I get a catalog once a month and it is amazing how many cordless tools they have now.
Question:
At work we built a bench and painted it black. We wanted to add a clear coat and we used the Minwax water based Polyurethane One Coat. (Never used it before until now). We applied the first coat with a foam brush. After it dried we had quite a few brush marks. So here’s my question, to help get rid of those brush marks would it be best to lightly sand and apply a second coat like normal? Or, lightly sand and try adding a little water to the polyurethane to help thin it out before adding another coat? This stuff just seems so thick and dries quickly, so its hard to work with. Was hoping adding a little water would make it easier to work with. Anybody have experience working with:
At work we built a bench and painted it black. We wanted to add a clear coat and we used the Minwax water based Polyurethane One Coat. (Never used it before until now). We applied the first coat with a foam brush. After it dried we had quite a few brush marks. So here’s my question, to help get rid of those brush marks would it be best to lightly sand and apply a second coat like normal? Or, lightly sand and try adding a little water to the polyurethane to help thin it out before adding another coat? This stuff just seems so thick and dries quickly, so its hard to work with. Was hoping adding a little water would make it easier to work with. Anybody have experience working with:
I'm not exactly an expert on finishing but when it comes to polyurethane just about any time I brush it on I end up with brush marks no matter what. If you can spray it on you're always ahead of the curve in my opinion.Question:
At work we built a bench and painted it black. We wanted to add a clear coat and we used the Minwax water based Polyurethane One Coat. (Never used it before until now). We applied the first coat with a foam brush. After it dried we had quite a few brush marks. So here’s my question, to help get rid of those brush marks would it be best to lightly sand and apply a second coat like normal? Or, lightly sand and try adding a little water to the polyurethane to help thin it out before adding another coat? This stuff just seems so thick and dries quickly, so its hard to work with. Was hoping adding a little water would make it easier to work with. Anybody have experience working with:
I haven’t used that particular product but I have used other Minwax poly. I would quickly defer to others on this thread that are way more knowledgeable but I wonder if your first mistake was going with anything that says One coat. It would worry me to add water to it. I find that it takes a good three coats and lightly sand with 220 in between and you can get it pretty smooth. I actually don’t like applying poly with foam brushes but I probably haven’t used high enough quality ones.Question:
At work we built a bench and painted it black. We wanted to add a clear coat and we used the Minwax water based Polyurethane One Coat. (Never used it before until now). We applied the first coat with a foam brush. After it dried we had quite a few brush marks. So here’s my question, to help get rid of those brush marks would it be best to lightly sand and apply a second coat like normal? Or, lightly sand and try adding a little water to the polyurethane to help thin it out before adding another coat? This stuff just seems so thick and dries quickly, so its hard to work with. Was hoping adding a little water would make it easier to work with. Anybody have experience working with:
Yeah, I didn’t want to use the one coat poly because I knew it would be thicker. But of course, my boss got it because the guy at Home Depot said it was better... I am hoping adding a little water won’t ruin it, and will thin it out enough so its workable.
My thoughts - if just an amateur, I'd go with what's been working with emphasis on keeping the same battery platform. If a professional, then the emphasis would be on the best available, be it Milwaukee, DeWalt, other. In my case, I've had Makita for several years given the same batteries for drills and drivers. Given that, the Makita's have performed good.
I tend to agree. I need an upgraded miter saw so I just want all out and got the DeWalt. My Ryobi hand tools will do fine for what I need. So, I’ll probably ride them til they die. I do have some dewalt battery tools though (pole saw and weed wacker) so I’ve somewhat started the conversion.
Milwaukee 1000%. Not to crap on DeWalt....but I think and have seen many times dewalt is trash. We use Milwaukee at work and I love them. Bought them for myself as well. Don't skimp out and make sure you buy the fuel brand as well. 100% worth it. I use my cordless tools so much for both woodworking and working on my vehicles to home projects.
I wouldn't say DeWalt is trash but how many different battery connection styles have they gone through in the last decade? I bet it's 3 or 4 where as Milwaukee and Ryobi have kept the same battery housing while updating the internals so if your tool craps out your old batteries aren't worthless. That's most of the reason why I've gone with Milwaukee for my cordless stuff.
Which tools, specifically? I have seen some less than stellar reviews on some of their hand helds.
I’m definitely not a power-user, but have a 20v drill, impact driver, and reciprocating saw, and have been happy with all. I’ve been using the drill and driver for 8(?) years without problems. Same batteries, and the same style they are using for new tools.
With no knowledge, I’d suspect the trick with DeWalt is to get the pro-level tools (20v) instead of 12 or 18.
I used to go through a cordless hammer drill about every three months for work and at the time we would get 36v DeWalts or 32v Milwaukees. The Milwaukees had more torque, longer battery life and lasted longer than the DeWalts every time. That is why I switched to Milwaukee 12v Fuel for my personal stuff and it has been going strong for over 10 years.
DeWalt isn't junk. It just isn't as good as Milwaukee.
Thanks for the input/clarification. In reality, I'm sure either are fine for what I do. Honestly, the Ryobi impact driver gets me by just fine right now. It's definitely under-powered, I can tell that much. I used a Milwaukee impact at work this week and it drove a 3" screw like butter. Probably used half the time as my Ryobi. Most of what I do doesn't require a ton of screws and it's all DIY/home stuff. I'll just run that Ryobi until it wears down and upgrade then.
Agreed. Which is also the reason for the price difference.
I feel like power tool brand debate is the same as the old Chevy/Dodge/Ford thing. They all have pluses and minuses but they’ll all probably get the job done.
Just pick one within the budget and roll with it. If you’re not using it to make a living, there will probably be a new battery style by the time anything craps out anyways.
If any big pieces are missing you probably need to sort through the poo in the back yard...
