Concrete Repair to Driveway
- Thread starter rpcyclone2013
- Start date
This is who I used at my old house with sagging slab in garage and the concrete sidewalk around the outside of the garage tilting towards house. They did a great job.
How long has it been? I don’t know why mine didn’t take but wasn’t a good job at all. I used to live down the street from CYEATHAWK and he had good luck also.
Yeah I've never had to do that on any of our houses that we build. Not really sure what it cost to get it done. Biggest problem with flat work is they tear up your yard and everything around it that's why I don't really care to redo concrete if there's another way around it.
maybe it’s just me but I would think that if it doesn’t take the first time through with fixing it. There is a larger, underlying issue that if you don’t take care of it will continue to create further issues down the road (or: maybe there’s a drainage issue away from the house that causes the rain water runoff to wash the base away from underneath the original paving).
A lot of the issue with concrete drive slab or sidewalk failure occurs in the area that is backfilled after footing/foundation work is done. If these areas are not compacted properly they will fail. Same goes for any repair areas. Compact the soil well and provide some granular rock fill that allows moisture to move out of the area. If you don't, plan on fixing it again down the road.
The tile can slowly suck away also. Best to not landscape hard right away. Let things work and get packed well. Then you may need to top off a little and then Landscape.
This is good advice. I would also add if you plan to be in the house for a long time to pour the cement 2' thicker and over-do it on re-bar. The cement slabs I park on were poured over 20 years ago and there isn't a crack in them but we poured them 6" thick with plenty of re-bar.
Well, where we live(cymac2408 use to)you could have done all the preventative measures you want....the original pour was bad. Like amateur hour bad. They poured 3 inches.....no bar over round rock. That is sidewalk grade work right there. For a driveway. How they got away with that is beyond me, but almost every house in this development has either done the temporary jack up or had a new one poured to 4" re-bar specs. Ours is so bad it's almost to the point I won't need a jack hammer to get it up.
Kind of related but not the same... I have low spots in garage floor under my cars rear tires.
Anyone ever done anything to fix this?
Guessing I would have to use some kind of filler to get that back to level, but don't want mess pitch up. Also, the filler probably wont match the existing smooth surface. Doesn't have a drain
Anyone ever done anything to fix this?
Guessing I would have to use some kind of filler to get that back to level, but don't want mess pitch up. Also, the filler probably wont match the existing smooth surface. Doesn't have a drain
Similar to the OP but different - Has anyone had millings put on their driveway? We have a gravel driveway that plowing snow destroys and I am sick of replacing the gravel every couple years. A client told me to call Manatts and have them install millings. Supposedly it is a good alternative to paving it at only a fraction of the cost.
It’s basically ground up asphalt. So if you get enough heat and packing, it will be close. It’s getting the packing done right that is critical.
Never used them, but if you are familiar with old country gravel roads... I think it's the material they use as a base before putting a permanent surface down. Should work just fine for a driveway.
Yeah that's basically what my friend said. He said have them put down late July/August (when it's hot) and pack them in with a Skid Loader (one with wheels and not tracks). I am guessing my race hauler would pack it in pretty good.
I would think I'd also be able to pay Manatt's to roll it in with one of their concrete/asphalt rollers
If you do have someone mud jack your slab don't be fooled by someone who brags that they will give you the same result while boring fewer holes in your slab. If they do fewer holes the grout will contact the slab in fewer places and the slab will be more likely to crack or resettle over time. Think of the grout as flattened cones of grout at each of the fill holes. Fewer holes means less grout contact points holding up your slab. The contractor bragging this method gets the benefit of having to use less grout to complete your job.
By the same token if they are bragging about cutting really tiny diameter holes they are using grout that doesn't have the thickness or proper sized aggregate to last.
I'm no expert but I did a lot of research before having my front stoop mud jacked where it had started to slope toward the garage.
By the same token if they are bragging about cutting really tiny diameter holes they are using grout that doesn't have the thickness or proper sized aggregate to last.
I'm no expert but I did a lot of research before having my front stoop mud jacked where it had started to slope toward the garage.
They have to hold up better than the gravel I already have lol
I was told to make sure it is millings that have been reground at a plant because they millings that are ground at the road site will have particles that are to big.
Is this the same as chip seal? We had that done on one of our driveways and it's been great. Our gravel driveway is almost unusable right now but the chip seal is fine except a couple soft spots.
