Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
New grass seed will not work well or likely at all if a crabgrass control was recently applied. You generally need to wait until after the chemical has been broken down or washed away. In some cases that could take many months depending on concentration and what chemical was used. My general advice to those seeking to seed in the Spring is don't do it!
There are steps you can take however if you really need to fill in a small to medium sized spot. If you can find a dedicated lawn store or perhaps a Site One location nearby you can pick up field conditioner. It's basically a bag of a special kind of clay and commonly used to help muddy spots in baseball fields. Anyhow, you can put that down to a depth of 1/2 inch or so in the bare spot. Put grass seed on top. Cover grass seed with 1/8 to 1/4 inch more of the field conditioner. Apply water, some sun, and time.
Our backyard is overall pretty solid, but random patches are more of a dark green, and growing faster than the rest. That grass amounts to probably a third or so of the yard. 1) Should I try to get the rest of it to look like that, or try to get the dark/fast stuff to look like the rest? 2) How do I go about doing that?
The dark fast growing stuff seems thicker/better looking, but the way it is patchy/growing so fast makes the overall yard look kind of crappy. We do have 2 dogs, but these patches don't coincide with where they crap/pee or anything.
Just built our house a year ago; the ground was so hard I about stroked out planting trees. Neighbor seemed to think gypsum would loosen/improve the soil compaction. I read conflicting info. Anyone have success with a heavy clay soil?
Is it too late to put down crabgrass preventer in north central Iowa?
Sorry if already asked. The last two years, I am getting hit with the weeds below all over the lawn. I tried Earle May's Super Brush and Weed Killer last year, and it worked to some extent, but it kept coming back, even after three applications. Any help would be appreciated.
![]()
Husband wants to transplant our poppies to extend our patio and thinks he can do it as soon as they bloom. He has been moving peonies around and I think that’s fine, but poppies I thought you should do in fall when done blooming. Anyone know for sure, the poppies are beautiful and are older than me.
I'm sorry but my flower and shrub knowledge is very limited. I'd suggest you go to your local nursery as they should have people on staff that can answer this questions.
That’s a good idea. Also thought about asking ISU Horticulture. I don’t know if it makes a difference as to what variety of poppy they are.
Husband has gotten bold with his success at transplanting peonies but I think they are pretty hardy plants.
Like peonies, hate the ants.I mowed over some Peonies bushes for 5 years as a teenager before they finally quit coming back. Peonies are very tough indeed.
Quinclorac is about the only thing easily available to you for post emergent control. Some of the cocktails at the big box store will say crabgrass right on the front along with other chems. They work but you might have to hit a plant twice, 2 weeks apart. There won't be any crabgrass right now in Iowa so if you think you have it, it's actually another weed and probably something much worse........

Colored mulch will fade over time. Not an issue if you are remulching every year, but if you plan to leave it for a few years be prepared for it to get lighter over time. Probably not a big deal unless you plan to only augment what you have in following years rather than replacing it wholesale. The new stuff will stick out like a sore thumb if next to older, faded stuff.Anyone use colored (black actually) mulch and have any issues? I've always used cedar mulch but am considering changing it up this year and adding color. Any negatives to colored mulch?
* Yes, I would buy the stuff marked safe for pets and not made from recycled pallets etc. The only advice I've read so far said to stay away from the cheap crap.
Definitely not crabgrass. It looks like a rough clumping fescue but it's hard to say for sure. Regardless, the answer is the same. Your options are essentially roundup or dig it out. You are basically trying to eradicate a cool season undesirable grass, from a cool season turf. The biological differences between these plants are minor and their isn't a selective herbicide on the market that will be effective for you. Perhaps tenacity would have some impact, but you would need to get the weed properly identified by your local extension office. Tenacity is really expensive though and you really need to get the exact weed identified to make sure Tenacity would work. My suggestion would be to spray it with roundup and then seed the bare spots in the fall.