Acreage tips from the Fanatics

Sparkplug

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OK CdnlnGld,

I've Got something similar to that.

13.75 Acres total - 8 Acre Property with 1.5 Acre Pond / 4 Acre Pasture / 1.75 acres of ditch to mow, Barn with 5 stalls and no indoor riding arena (that sounds nice congrats). I Have almost exactly 6.75 acres to mow on the property and the 4 acre pasture I have hayed for me (except when I mow it 5 or 6 times year.)

Telling people what they should use to do the work they have is like telling someone how to choose their spouse. It almost always gets you in a fight or belittled. I'm going to give my opinion and you can do with it what you want.

Here's the main equipment I have:
John Deere F932 - I use this for trimming along fence, around buildings and under and around trees.
John Deere 1600T Series II
TYM T390 Millenium with a front end loader

3 Point Attachments:
Post Hole Digger with 8" Auger - Need to dig a post hole or plant trees or bushes?
6' Tiller - Got a garden? What else are you going to do with all the mucking?
7' down reach back hoe - Not a necessity, but it VERY handy when you need to dig anything.
7' Blade - good for spreading and plowing snow, however, don't use as much anymore
6' Box Blade - Very handy for dirt and gravel leveling, although there are some new tools that look pretty nice out there.
HD 12 Post Pounder (if anyone needs one, I've got one cause I am done with pounding posts for a while.)
6' Snow Blower - IF you use your tractor, MUCH better than moving snow with FEL
Middle Buster - Planting and harvesting potatoes, this is the ONLY way.

Where I have bought most all of this stuff:

Govdeals.com
Auctiontime.com
Purplewave.com

HINT: If you deal with a municipality, they tend to have a lot of nice older equipment. You just need to ask them for the service records. If they are a medium to large sized municipality, they are going to have a shop with mechanics that service everything. If the service records have every hose and belt and oil change, pay 20% extra for that equipment. They have kept them in tip top condition. Farmers MIGHT do that too, but it will be more rare. You might ask to talk to their dealer where they got the service done then.

1. I'd go and get a minimum 40 HP tractor with 4WD (there are options on this, but simple 2WD is irritating and not something you'll want to mess with.) I think I would like to have a 50-60 HP version now, but 40 HP has gotten me by this far. It needs a front end loader on it and you'll want to make sure it has at least a 2000# capacity. Don't think you need to go and get a new tractor, step down to an older model and get the HP you need. Tractors are a little like tanks, if they have had the fluids changed, they will last a LONG TIME. The tractor will be your most important tool and you will use it for everything. The FEL will become your muscle and your best friend. DO NOT TRUST WALKING UNDER YOUR BEST FRIEND UNDER LOAD! And BTW, find and use the user's manual. Tractors have a lot of stuff on them that you'll wonder what they do. Know what they do. Learn about float and regen on your FEL if it has it and things like float and the adjustments for the 3 point hitch. You'll not have to wonder why, "this thing isn't working like it should" later down the road. You'll also find a lot of very nice people in user's forums talking about everything you've been wondering about.

2. Get all equipment WITH ROPS AND USE THEM!

3. DO NOT MOW WITH THE TRACTOR! Belly mowers suck and screw up all sorts of activities that you SHOULD use your tractor for. See point #1. I don't care how "easy" it is to take the stupid thing off, it will be a PITA every time you have to do it and it will happen when you need to be doing something else.

4. With that said, get something specific to mowing. Here is where you can go 2 directions. You could get a smaller Zero Turn and zoom around fast OR you could go a little slower and use a larger deck 72" with something like what I have the F932 (although, I'd step up to a JD 1445) that you can also put a snow blower on.

5. Moving snow: For you, I'd get a front attachment for the 1445 and a cab (would be ideal) and then you'd have that place clean in a short time. If you like a neck ache, then you can get a nice snow blower for the tractor and run backwards all the time. I've been moving snow out here for 11 years. No matter how good you are with a bucket and float, you're going to leave a mess and have to mess around forever cleaning up all the lines that sill off the sides. AND the snow is in big piles and going to blow back in on one side or the other. Either way you go, get a blower and get that stuff as far away from the drive as possible. ALSO, the blower can be set to float above your gravel. NO matter how good you are with the bucket, you'll lose gravel with it more than a well set blower.

6. While you are at it make sure you have a good truck / suburban and a trailer with brakes. I have a couple trailers, but I use my flat 16' double axle car trailer the most. It is handy and can carry 7000#. I use a 2013 2500 Suburban with all the seats taken out with a flat piece of plywood and a little 2" X 4" structure across the back. It is like a 2500 with a topper, EXCEPT you can get a little more in and you have access all the way through. This is where there a TON of options depending on what you really need to do. But, I like the arrangement I have. (BTW, find a fire department getting rid of these, they take EXCELLENT care of their trucks. Mine's red, wink, wink.) One tool I would add in this area would be a 7' X 16' dump trailer. That would be an ideal piece, I've just never pulled the trigger. But, that beast would come in so handy just ask anyone that owns one.

7. I just found this stuff. If you like clean fence line, you might try this too: WeedSeal
Eventually, My place will be on this site. I'm taking pictures for them of a brand new installation. Mowing fenceline sucks and I really want to stop spraying chemicals to control grass. I'd suggest not doing it for 11 years before you do it.

I'm sure I will think of more later, I'll just add it on here.

Good luck, now I'll read what everyone else wrote during the 2 hours I spent doing this twice
Think about renting much of the equipment mentioned. I have some of the items because they were always here and haven’t used in 15 years. Our drive is a quarter mile and only once have I had to use the big equipment to clear it of snow.
 

BCClone

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Not exactly sure.
If you are dealing with horses I’m guessing you have a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup. Throw a blade on that. Just have to start with a big push so you have room to keep piling it.
 

CYDJ

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Think about renting much of the equipment mentioned. I have some of the items because they were always here and haven’t used in 15 years. Our drive is a quarter mile and only once have I had to use the big equipment to clear it of snow.
Sparkplug has a good point. If you don't like having stuff around, then renting is a good idea. However:

1) I like being able to say to myself. The weather looks nice on Fri evening and Saturday, I'm going to do X. Try getting rental stuff on short notice OR even when you want it, ever. I'm near a pretty big city and it's hard to get.

2) I honestly would like to know (not in a snarky way, I would really like to know) where you can get 3 point attachments to rent. I've never found it.

3) If you rent most of these items, you'll need to then attach them to something that can drive them AND THAT, is a Skid Steer. Those are readily available along with the attachments you need and there is a reason for that. They are pretty expensive to rent, deliver, etc.

4) I've paid for my attachments 2 to 5 times over rental fees, but I do a LOT of stuff on my property myself. So, you have to take that into account, if you aren't handy, hire someone else to do it and just pay them, then you don't have to look at them all the time either.

If you are not in a hurry and rather careful about your bidding and willing to drive to the contiguous states to Iowa (which might be a big ask) you can get these items pretty inexpensively and never pay to rent them or ever wait for them again.

This is an estimate of what I paid for each of these items: (I'd also say that I spent an average of $50 on gas on top of all of the prices to pick these things up.

Post Hole Digger with 8" Auger -
Need to dig a post hole or plant trees or bushes? Brand New Mahindra, $400

6' Tiller - Got a garden? What else are you going to do with all the mucking?
4 year old King Kutter $1,650, won it on the way to Iowa ISU game, picked it up on the way back in, I think, Green Mountain. (If you are going to garden and you have horse poo that you compost, you should own this, renting one is silly in that case.)

7' down reach back hoe - Not a necessity, but it VERY handy when you need to dig anything. ($3,750, I owned this before the derecho for a construction project, but it made this a NO BRAINER) I'm going to guess I have used it for the better part of 20 full days. BUT, not everyone likes to trench and plant big trees, etc. or has to dig out 15 or so 60 year old trees after they got toppled. So, this is one thing you can rent and make work. Still expensive, but that one could work out. I got lucky and we had a 100 year storm that took out a bunch of beautiful huge trees.

7' Blade - good for spreading and plowing snow, however, don't use as much anymore Like $250, when you need it you need it and they are pretty handy. I'd recommend plowing snow with this before pushing with your FEL. It SHOULD have been closer to $400 - 500, I got lucky on a bad auction day with that one.

6' Box Blade - Very handy for dirt and gravel leveling, although there are some new tools that look pretty nice out there. This is very useful 2 or 3 times a year. I paid probably ~$500 for it, but it is a VERY STURDY model and it was brand new. Never have understood why some new stuff show up at auction, but it does.

HD 12 Post Pounder (if anyone needs one, I've got one cause I am done with pounding posts for a while.)
Don't get one of these unless you're putting in 100 posts, its silly otherwise. ~$3,500

6' Snow Blower - IF you use your tractor, MUCH better than moving snow with FEL (This is not a rental Item and Spark Plug wasn't referring to it I'm pretty sure.)

Middle Buster - Planting and harvesting potatoes, this is the ONLY way. (Not even worth talking about, just buy it if you plant over 100' of potatoes your back will thank you. ALSO, when you are breaking the garden, it can really help if you don't have one.
 

CYDJ

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What
Think about renting much of the equipment mentioned. I have some of the items because they were always here and haven’t used in 15 years. Our drive is a quarter mile and only once have I had to use the big equipment to clear it of snow.
What do you use to clear your drive of snow? I'm thinking of trying to go a little smaller too, just getting ideas. I have .17 mile to clear TOTAL and I need my blower most of the time and use my tractor for that. Most of the time a much smaller blower would work though. What is big equipment you're talking about?
 

engineer_doug

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If you get a diesel tractor, use winter blend diesel from September through April. Or at least have access to a diesel fuel anti-gel additive (like this) and follow the directions for usage. A gelled diesel fuel system is not fun to deal with on a frigid day.

Find out options for propane service, along with their pricing plans. Perhaps the prior property owner can share their use history to help estimate propane needs.

If one isn't already installed, consider installing a generator or other backup power source in the event of an extended power outage. It could be as simple as a tailgate-type generator to run a well pump, or a refrigerator / freezer, or a furnace blower, or other essential electric device.
 
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CYDJ

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It's a bit of a gray area. The HOA says no buisness to be run from the premissis, but addresses boarding and we have to allow fellow HOA members first crack at the space.
I don't think you bought a house, I'm pretty sure this is a cult. You might want to have an emergency evacuation plan.

Just joking, but the reason to buy a place in the country is to get away from crap like that.
 

NWICY

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This times 1000. For whatever reason, horse people tend to struggle with payments. I know a couple of area large animal veterinarians that have decided no more horses. 80%+ of their delinquent payments were horse related.

LOL most vets I know it's cash up front for their equine clients.
 

peteypie

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I have 10 acres and bought a kioti with loader, 60" deck. If you don't love the color green, you can save a ton on a nice hydrostatic kioti, Kubota, bobcat etc. My driveway sucked for snow with a bucket, so this year I got a snowplow for my side by side which I also went the cheap lesser name brand and works great for 1/2 the price of a Polaris or other high end ones.
 

NWICY

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I would really like to plant a row of magnolias along the road. There are some evergreen and apple or chery trees already on the property. I would also like a small grove of conifers like some white pine or something.

The NRCS can help you with tree selection, and maybe draw up wind break plans. Check with the Iowa DNR they sell bare root trees very reasonable.
 

Sparkplug

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What

What do you use to clear your drive of snow? I'm thinking of trying to go a little smaller too, just getting ideas. I have .17 mile to clear TOTAL and I need my blower most of the time and use my tractor for that. Most of the time a much smaller blower would work though. What is big equipment you're talking about?
We have a JD snowblower but because of plantings on the north the drive rarely drifts. We do have four wheel drive vehicles because the county roads do drift
 

NWICY

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How many people here have had Daughter Went To College But Her Horse Didn't Syndrome? Just checking for a friend.

Well it'll be cheaper for you if she doesn't take the horse to college unless she's a good equestrian and on scholly somewhere. Even then it might still be cheaper to pay for school.
 

besserheimerphat

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Looks like some really nice property. Good luck!

If your into trees (I am), and on a budget and cheap (I am), plant some baby trees now, very small or saplings (which you can get for next to nothing at Arbour Day Society, or other. Consider a few native hardwoods to your area (oak, hickory, etc.) around the house and perimeter of property. You might check with horse or animal requirements regarding trees in their living area, i.e., tree and oak nuts might be a problem for certain animals to ingest, I am no expert. Consider a few maples (Sugar, Red), maybe a few Cleveland Pears (stay away from Bradford Pear).

Lastly, it looks like you have room for a tree orchard! Viewing your property, I would say around your house or the house side of your large horse outbuilding, near a water supply initially. If your will be planting apple trees, stay away from planting them near any cedars (Eastern Red Cedar, Juniper) secondary to cedar-apple rust disease.

Do a little work now, then in 5-10 years you can reap the benefits! You'll be surprised at how big they will be after 10 years even.
The DNR used to run a reforestation program where you could get a bunch of native species as seedlings, taken from Iowa bred trees so well adapted, for like a dollar each. The sold different packages for different types of wildlife that included big hardwoods, smaller fast growing trees and shrubs, some evergreens, stuff with berries and flowers. About half will not survive, but that's expected and part of why it's cheap. They tell you how far apart to plant to have the right density.
 
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t-noah

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How many people here have had Daughter Went To College But Her Horse Didn't Syndrome? Just checking for a friend.
Does this friend happen to be a friend of a friend of the father? :)
 

NWICY

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If you get a diesel tractor, use winter blend diesel from September through April. Or at least have access to a diesel fuel anti-gel additive (like this) and follow the directions for usage. A gelled diesel fuel system is not fun to deal with on a frigid day.

Find out options for propane service, along with their pricing plans. Perhaps the prior property owner can share their use history to help estimate propane needs.

If one isn't already installed, consider installing a generator or other backup power source in the event of an extended power outage. It could be as simple as a tailgate-type generator to run a well pump, or a refrigerator / freezer, or a furnace blower, or other essential electric device.

If you've got the tractor you can always get a PTO driven one better to have the tractor plugged in before the storm gives you a better chance of the tractor starting before if the power goes out.
 

NWICY

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Funny, I've never once had a vet ask me for payment up front. I always get an invoice and pay it.

AND I would refuse to pay cash, I don't like the way it feels in my hand. ;)

That's because you pay your bills, lots of horsefolk don't. Hell I quit small baling because it wasn't worth the hassles selling to them.
 

t-noah

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The DNR used to run a reforestation program where you could get a bunch of native species as seedlings, taken from Iowa bred trees so well adapted, for like a dollar each. The sold different packages for different types of wildlife that included big hardwoods, smaller fast growing trees and shrubs, some evergreens, stuff with berries and flowers. About half will not survive, but that's expected and part of why it's cheap. They tell you how far apart to plant to have the right density.
Ever since I've been gone, I've always said that parts of Iowa, especially the area around Ames (roads leading in and out, for example) should spend more effort in planting trees, beautification.

Think of all the trees taken down over the years to make all of the farmland (in part). Putting some of it back would make the area more appealing.
 

Cycsk

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That's because you pay your bills, lots of horsefolk don't. Hell I quit small baling because it wasn't worth the hassles selling to them.


Still waiting for the blowback from the "horsefolk."